BENJAMIN LIEBERMAN — Tatiana, the New York Times’ new #1 restaurant in New York City, is a unique and lively Afro-Caribbean restaurant located in David Geffen Hall in Lincoln Center. From when you first enter the restaurant, it is clear that Tatiana is not your typical trendy New York restaurant. Tatiana is very lively, but not overly loud. A mix of R&B and Reggae spanning the last 25 years sets the mood, and the customers come dressed to the tee.
Tatiana is head chef and owner Kwame Onwuachi’s fifth restaurant. Naming the restaurant after his sister, Onwuachi made it his goal to share his childhood growing up in New York. I asked him what he felt needed to be said about his restaurant, to which he responded: “The restaurant just represents New York. I grew up in Harlem and the Bronx. It’s really just reflective of my experiences… It’s not the New York a lot of people expect, but it’s the real New York.” Onwuachi does a great job of drawing on many cultures in New York, creating a creative, yet classic menu that encompasses the whole city.
The restaurant has become difficult to get into, but still possible. Resy.com releases reservations twenty-eight days in advance at 12:00 pm each day, and there are 6 bar seats which are first come, first serve. If you’re planning to sit at the bar, the best times to go are when the restaurant opens at 5:00 (I would go fifteen minutes early, there might be a line.) and around 8:15-8:30. I have been to Tatiana twice, and reviewed everything I’ve had while there.
Key:
1-4: Would not order.
4.5-6: Best for fans of the dish.
6.5-7.5: Very Good, never a bad choice.
8-9: Delicious.
9.5-10: Delicious and one-of-a-kind, definitely should be in your order.
Starters:
Curried Goat Patties: Curried goat and beef patties are two traditional Caribbean foods that Onwuachi combines exceptionally to create this appetizer. The filling stays true to its flavor, and the crust is perfectly flaky and crunchy. The patties are served with two sauces, a mango chutney and a green seasoning aioli, both of which compliment very well in their own way. The dish is simple yet innovative, and a great way to start your meal. 8.5/10
Egusi Dumplings: These were not my favorite, but that’s taking into account how good the rest of the food was. Other people I’ve spoken to have loved these, and they are a great example of Chef Onwuachi’s implementation of his Afro-Caribbean roots into a New York-Chinese food staple. That being said, unless you love crab, this would not be a must order. 6.5/10
Honeynut Piri Piri Salad: Composed of cucumber, avocado, grapes, and quinoa, is a subtle combination of sweet and salty. As someone who doesn’t like quinoa, I thought it contributed very nicely to the texture of the salad. A very good, unorthodox salad. 8/10
Black Truffle Chopped Cheese: The Chopped Cheese is a Deli classic, and Chef Onwuachi refines it to create my favorite appetizer on the menu. The order comes with four small sandwiches, with perfectly seasoned beef and cheese sandwiched between toasted brioche, topped with sliced black truffle. This chopped cheese is a testament to Chef Onwuachi’s ability to take New York staples of his childhood, and make them into high-end dining menu items. This is currently not on the menu as truffles are out of season, but a must-order when it returns. 9.5/10
Andouille Sausage: The andouille sausage has Louisiana inspired flavors, and it’s a great option for people that like spice. Served with a creole mustard, the sausage has a slightly sweet glaze on the skin. Not one of the best appetizers but still a good dish. 7.5/10
Mains:
Curried Snow Crab: I’m not a huge fan of crab, but these were amazing. The crab is tender and flavorful, and the coconut curry sauce is creamy and delicious. The homemade roti and lime complements the crab perfectly, and I would definitely recommend it, whether you like crab or not. 9/10
Braised Oxtails: Chef Onwuachi executes this classic Caribbean dish at the highest level. The dish stays true to its traditional flavor, and is very well cooked, falling right off the bone. Amazing, but not one of the more inventive dishes Tatiana has to offer. 9/10
Shawarma Roasted Chicken: This dish is huge, probably best for two people. The chicken itself is cooked well; juicy inside with crunchy, well seasoned skin. The dish also comes with a delicious lamb over rice and two sauces: hot sauce, and white sauce. 8/10
Short Rib Pastrami Suya: The Pastrami Suya was my favorite dish on the menu. In essence, it is a deconstructed reuben sandwich with a Caribbean twist. The wagyu short rib is perfect in every way, the coco bread takes Parker House Rolls to another level, and the melted red cabbage completes the dish very well. This dish encompasses what Tatiana is about: taking common, everyday New York foods and turning them into a Michelin Star-worthy menu. 9.75/10
Desserts:
Bodega Special: Modeled after Little Debbie’s Cosmic Brownie, the Bodega Special is a great way to end your meal. The dish is composed of a homemade, warm brownie topped with unidentified small colored balls (true to the original), federal donuts ice cream, and cookie crumbs. Originally fifty cents, the Cosmic Brownie was a staple of my middle school deli runs, and Onwuachi uses it to personalize the classic desert of a brownie and ice cream for New York natives.
The Dutch Report 